Aconcagua Expeditions

Aconcagua Polish Glacier Direct


We’ll be attempting the impressing Polish Glacier, after approaching the mountain through its east side and setting base camp at Plaza Argentina. We’ll then reach the base of our route and climb the steep slopes of the glacier, using ice climbing and glacier traveling techniques in a challenging summit day. After summit, we’ll descend thought the Horcones River, surrounding the whole mountain. This is a tough challenge, for experienced and very fit mountaineers.


Aconcagua Polish Glacier Expedition Trip Details

  • Skill level: Intermediate/Advanced. Strenous hiking and technical ice-snow climbing above 20,000 ft.
  • Location: Aconcagua, Andes Range, Argentina
  • Length: 20 days
  • Climber/guide ratio: 1:1 \ 2:1
  • Capacity: 4
  • Prerequisites: excellent physical condition, intermediate ice and glacier climbing skills.
  • Cost: 1:1 $9,500;   2:1 $5,800
  • Departure Dates: On request from November to March.

Included
  • Certified Mountain Guides (bilingual)
  • 2 nights 5* Hotel accommodations in Mendoza and Penitentes. 2 nights Hosteria in Penitentes.
  • Assistance obtaining the permits (permit's fee not included)
  • All meals while in the mountain
  • Restaurant meals in Mendoza and Penitentes (as seen on the Itinerary)
  • Camping and cooking gear for the group
  • Base camp services: dining tent, WC, hyperbaric chamber, emergency oxygen
  • Satellite phone service.
  • Mules
  • Porters for group gear (tents, cookware, food, etc.)
  • Wine tour
  • Private ground transportation throughout the trip.
  • 24/7 assistance in the US before and during the program.
  • AMG Cap
  • Real time online dispatches

Not included
  • Plane tickets
  • Park Fees
  • Restaurant meals and those not listed in the itinerary
  • Restaurant drinks
  • Personal equipment (see the Aconcagua Normal Route Equipment List)
  • Personal Insurance
  • Personal expenses
  • Sat Phone calls.
  • Rescue costs and extra expenses caused by abandoning the expedition.



Aconcagua Polish Glacier Expedition Trip Itinerary

Day 1 Mendoza (2,428 ft). You should arrange your flight in order to arrive to Santiago (Chile) or Buenos Aires in the morning of Day 1 and connect to Mendoza the same day. We'll be waiting for you at the airport and then we'll drive to the Hotel. After having an introductory meeting and checking gear we'll go out for a welcome dinner in one of the best restaurants in town.
Day 2 Mendoza – Penitentes. Early in the morning we'll obtain the mandatory permits and immediately drive to Penitentes (8,860 ft) where we'll arrange the loads for the mules. Night at the Hotel.
Days 3-5 Approach to Plaza Argentina Base Camp (13,700 ft). Mules will carry our gear. Our first two days we'll follow the Vacas valley. On the third day we'll continue up the Relinchos Valley to our base Camp.
Day 6 Plaza Argentina. Today is a day for resting, preparing for our main objective and enjoying the Andes views.
Day 7 Plaza Argentina / Camp I (16,000 ft). This day we'll carry some loads to our first high camp and return to base (4-6 hours).
Day 8 Plaza Argentina. Rest day. We'll just relax and get ready for leaving base camp the next day.
Day 9 Plaza Argentina / Camp I (16,000 ft). We'll leave base camp and head northwest over the moraine of the Relinchos Glacier to arrive later at the site of Camp I. Here we'll set our tents and spend the night. (4-6 hours).
Day 10 Camp I / Camp II carry (19,300 ft). From Camp I, we'll climb to the Ameghino Col (17,650 ft.) and then towards the base of the Polish Glacier. Here we'll leave some gear, take a close look to our route and then return to C1 (5-7 hours). This is a hard day that will test our endurance and overall shape.
Day 11 Camp I. This day we'll just rest and review climbing techniques and strategy.
Day 12 Camp I / Camp II. We'll be moving our camp at the base of the glacier.
Day 13 Camp II. Here we'll be just focusing on our climb, saving energy and getting all ready for our summit attempt.
Day 14 Summit day (22,841 ft). Today we'll attempt the summit through the Direct Polish Glacier route. Depending on ice conditions we'll be using different climbing techniques until we reach the ridge that will take us to the summit. From the top we'll take the normal route and then the False Polish traverse to return to Camp II (10-12 hours)
Day 15 Camp II / Plaza de Mulas. We’ll begin the descent back down to Mulas basecamp.
Day 16 Plaza de Mulas - Penitentes. This day we’ll put on our hiking shoes again and go all the way down to the Park entrance and then to our hotel in Penitentes. On our way we’ll be able to contemplate the magnificent South Face, as well to cross the Playa ancha and the Horcones River. Dinner and Hotel night.
Day 17 Penitentes - Mendoza. After breakfast we’ll drive to Mendoza, check-in to our hotel and have some free time. This night we’ll get together at a local Bodega for a wine tour and the last dinner to celebrate the climb.
Day 18 Flight back home. After breakfast we’ll drive you to the airport for your flight back. End of the program.
Days 19/20 Extra Days. These 2 days will be used for better acclimatization and/or weather days, if necessary.

Restaurant meals included: day 1, day 2, day 16 and day 17.
Hotel includes breakfast.

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